Tammara Soma, Food Systems Planner  Sustain Ontario

There is a role for Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) labeling and Terroir to contribute to agricultural economic development and land preservation in Ontario.  Countries such as France and Spain have used PDO labeling to classify and market their products. Tammara Soma, Sustain Ontario’s newest staff member has done extensive research on this topic, and shares the results in this blog.

The Concept of Terroir: Connecting Food and the Landscape

The Terroir concept originated in France and has become a transnational and commonly used concept for defining the “taste of place” most commonly associated with wine. However, at its fundamental level, Terroir “refers to the special characteristics that a particular geographical area imparts to the food products that are cultivated there.”[i] By raising awareness of this concept, Ontario could gain an important economic development tool that would promote the local food economy and invest in an increasingly threatened agricultural sector. It is interesting to note that Histoire de la vie privée des français, explains Terroir as what “nature has seen fit to allow each of our provinces to produce.”[ii] Beyond wine, the concept of Terroir has now been applied to the Protected Designation of Origin food labelling system.

Example of the Spanish Protected Designation of Origin Labelling

“Cooking is merely the landscape in the pot” Josep Pla (Catalan Author, emphasis added)

In 1935, the French government through the Ministry of Agriculture established the Appelation D’Origine Controlée (AOC) to protect specific wines.[iii] The AOC system was successful economically and AOC status became extended to dairy and other agricultural products starting in the 1990s. In the 1970s, Spain developed its own appellation system and applied the classification to wine and food.[iv] Under the umbrella of the European Union, the Protected Designation of Origin seal is only given to agricultural products and foodstuffs, which are produced, processed and prepared in a given geographical area using recognized know-how.[v]

Inherent within the designation of the origin system is a tie to landscape and locality. The application required to obtain the protected designation of origin and registration is stringent, must meet rigorous standards and provide proof of origin based on registered land plots. The European Union provides a Database of Origin and Registration system (DOOR), documenting all of the approved designated food as well as the latest application that is currently in process.[vi]

An example of a product with a protected designation of origin seal is Queso Majorero (Majorero Cheese). The Majorero cheese is a fat cheese prepared from the milk of the Majorero goat breed with up to 15% Canarian sheep’s milk for ripening.[vii] It is produced on the island of Fuerteventura in the province of Las Palmas in the Canary Islands and in the municipalities of Antigua, Betancuria, La Oliva, Pájara, Puerto del Rosario and Tuineje.

There are a number of reasons for focusing on this example. Firstly, the designation of origin for the Majorero cheese implies the need to preserve the Majorero goat breed, which is significant in protecting the species and their habitat (the land). Secondly, the Majorero goats must live in a specific area with a varied topography and landscape as they only feed on stunted shrubs: monte verde, taray and laurisilva. This implies that the goats may not be intensively farmed and must live in what is called a “free-range” manner.  Thirdly, by documenting the method of production, the traditional practice of producing this unique cheese is preserved and not lost. In a globalized realm where the loss of traditional language, practice and customs is common, the PDO process plays an important role in preserving this traditional food knowledge. Fourthly, the PDO process also preserves and puts on public record the historical significance on the Majorero cheese and the origin of the Majorero name (a name given to the ancient inhabitants of Fuerteventura known as Mahorata, Majorata or Maxorata because of the shoes they wear made of goatskin) and therefore preserving the Majorero identity.

To conclude, the Protected Designation of Origin labeling system is an innovative tool for promoting and preserving Ontario’s Food and Farm Sector.

The system could offer an alternative solution to the current problems faced in the agriculture sector and serve as an economic development tool to showcase Ontario’s finest products.

Imagine the economic, environmental, and cultural benefits this labelling system can potentially bring to Ontario’s unique foodscape:

1. Increased support and investment for local food products and agriculture.
2. Support for local food infrastructure (abattoirs, canneries, food terminals, food processing centers)
3. Creation of new jobs in the food and agriculture sector.
4. Increased  economic viability of agriculture in Ontario.
5. Farmland preservation and ecological protection.
6. Habitat and seed preservation for unique foods and agriculture products.
7. A new economic development and marketing tool for Ontario products.
8. International recognition of Ontario’s quality food and beverages.
9. Preservation of traditional method of food and beverage production and processing including sustainable/organic methods.
10. Development of a food culture that highlights Ontario’s unique attributes and diversity.

For a longer more comprehensive report on the Protected Designation of Origin labelling system contact: Tammara Soma

[ii] Csergo,  Julia. “The Regionalization of Cuisines,: in Food: A culinary history, ed. J.L.

Flandrin and M. Montanari (New York: Columbia University Press, 1999):502.

[iii] Trubek, Amy B.  The Taste of Place. University of California Press: Berkeley, 2008.

[iv] Ibid

[v] <http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/database/index_en.htm>.

[vi] Ibid

[vii]European Union, Council Regulation EEC No 2081/92, Official Journal of the

European Communities, retrieved October 14^th 2009 from <http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:C:1998:172:0006:0008:EN:PDF>(Official Journal of the European Communities 98/C 172/03).

What are the best practices for local food distribution in Ontario and beyond? Take our poll: http://twtpoll.com/wpe0r5

Sustain Ontario and Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) have partnered to develop case studies of local food distribution models. Distribution has been identified as a priority issue for both Sustain Ontario and OCTA members. Regional and local food production has increased in response to market demand. Yet farmers face significant challenges in reaching existing and expanding local markets. Several innovative enterprises have developed recently that bridge this market gap. These alternative distribution models are the focus of the project’s research and case studies. We will be looking at existing business models in Ontario as well as other jurisdictions.

The research will explore an important economic opportunity that will be of interest to farmers and processors, people expanding or adding value-added capacity to their operations, small distributors who plan to expand, and organizations involved in economic development, community development and culinary tourism. The report in addition identifies significant new market opportunities that will be of interest to policy-makers, investors and government partners.

In June, the Township of Oro-Medonte approved a local food procurement policy, the first for Simcoe County, Mayor Harry Hughes said yesterday.

“I know that other municipalities have those objectives, we are the first to formalize it,” he said.

“The notion of one municipality taking another step is something that I think will rub off on the county.”

Brought forward by the Oro-Medonte environmental advisory group, the policy encourages the use of locally produced food for municipally controlled functions, Hughes said.

“The Ontario government could help build an infrastructure for a regional food economy, a regional system to support diversified farming, shorten the food chain and reduce the carbon footprint.” Betsy Donald. 2009. “From Kraft to Craft: Innovation and Creativity in Ontario’s Food Economy.” Toronto, Martin Prosperity Institute.

The April 6th 2009 provincial announcement of $24 million to “develop the logistics to get more Ontario-grown food into the province’s schools, hospitals, food service companies and other institutions” is a timely investment in the local food economy. Demand for local food is at an all-time high. Across Ontario, public interest groups, stakeholder organizations and food enterprises have been developing innovative ways to get local food to consumers. Targeted investment in local sustainable food production, processing and procurement will spur economic growth across the province, creating new green jobs. The Government of Ontario can create the conditions for Ontario producers to access new markets and stimulate food enterprise development. Sustain Ontario – The Alliance for Healthy Food and Farming, is launching the “Local Food, Local Jobs” initiative to support a local and sustainable food system for Ontario.

Sustain Ontario recommends key investments over the next three years in local food infrastructure and programs that stimulate regional food economies across the province.

- Encourage relevant ministries to co-operate on the development and execution of a province-wide local food strategy.

- Support regional civil society groups, stakeholder organizations and enterprises to scale-up their local food and agriculture efforts, and develop innovative partnership models to build supply chains for local food.

- Encourage the purchasing of local and local sustainable food in all public sector food procurement contracts. Provide transition funding for institutions to develop local supply chain linkages.

- Re-establish infrastructure to support the local food economy by developing regional food processing, abattoirs and distribution facilities, and by enabling on-farm post-harvest handling and other value-added activities.

- Support farmers to transition to meet the surging demand for local food, and encourage production practices that shorten the food chain and reduce the carbon footprint.

The province of Ontario should balance the investment of $24 million for local food procurement between  priority areas:

Developing and executing a province-wide local food strategy – $3 million.

Transitional funding for farmers and institutions to develop local supply chain linkages – $7 million.

Supporting civil society groups, stakeholder organizations and enterprises to scale-up their regional food and agriculture efforts, and develop innovative partnership models to build supply chains for local and local sustainable food – $7 million.

Re-establishing infrastructure to support regional food economies across the province – $7 million.

Let us know what you think of these recommendations by commenting below.

The McGuinty government is investing $24 million over three years to develop the logistics to get more Ontario-grown food into the province’s schools, hospitals, food service companies and other institutions. This will help Ontario farmers market and sell their products to more consumers.

Premier of Ontario – News Release – More Ontario-Grown Food In Schools, Hospitals.

CBC article